November 29, 2024, by Chloe

Skeletons and Superstitions

I don’t know about you, but the wintry weather has me yearning for warmer climes – and I’m not the only one! Last time we met Dr Edward Wrench in the midst of his European tour in February 1876, he was looking out over the Colosseum, but in today’s instalment he’s heading underground in search of experiences further off the beaten track… 

Wr D 21/9a Itinerary of tour to Italy entitled ‘How to Visit Italy’, enclosed in Edward Wrench’s diary for 1876 (front)

As we explored in the previous blog, Wrench did have a certain fascination with the morbid side of life, so it’s no surprise that he found himself descending into the Catacombs of the Capuchins – an order of Catholic friars. He breathlessly relates what he saw there in his diary: ‘Five or six arched vaults decorated with bones displayed in patterns and niches in which the recently dead are placed mummified in their hoods and cloaks’. This assemblage of over 3000 skeletons is not intended to be macabre, but rather as a ‘memento mori’: that is, a reminder of the fleeting nature of life, and of the inevitability of death. As always, Wrench’s writing reflected this nuance and displayed his characteristic sensitivity, succinctly summing up his experience of the crypt in one simple word: ‘weird’. I’ve avoided including an image as I’m aware that some of you may have recently eaten, but you’ll be pleased to hear that the catacombs are still open to the public, so you can go and judge the accuracy of his statement for yourselves!  

Entry for 5 March 1876 from Diary of Edward M. Wrench Wr D 21, showing a sketch of the layout of the wards at San Spirito Hospital.

To be fair, Wrench was also capable of being quite high-minded and industrious when he set his mind to it, finding time in his jam-packed sightseeing schedule for a spot of professional development in the form of a visit the San Spirito hospital, relaying an in-depth discussion of medical practice at that institution in his diary, along with a sketch of the layout of the wards. It seems that he was not particularly impressed with the hospital, finding it somewhat unsanitary. 

It is perhaps a little hypocritical of Wrench to be complaining about other peoples’ standard of hygiene, considering that only a couple of days previously he was happily drinking from the Trevi fountain, apparently due to the belief that doing so under moonlight would result in your swift return to Rome. While we can’t be sure as to the water quality of the fountain in the 19th century, I for one am certainly glad that this tradition has been superseded by the considerably less hazardous custom of coin-tossing. Having satisfied his more superstitious impulses, Wrench left Rome, heading south to Naples in search of the many archaeological marvels of Campania – not to mention some slightly stronger sunlight! Join us next time to head below ground once again, exploring the early excavations at Herculaneum’s theatre… 

Wr D 21/9a Itinerary of tour to Italy entitled ‘How to Visit Italy’, enclosed in Edward Wrench’s diary for 1876 (back)

 If you can’t wait, why not make a booking to read Wrench’s diary for yourself in our reading room? To find out more, or to book an appointment today, please contact us at mss-library@nottingham.ac.uk. 

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